Ahilya Fort, Maheshwar, Madhya Pradesh

Ahilya Fort, perched high above the River Narmada, is an enchanting place to stay. The location is spectacular, on the river bank where the ghats, reminiscent of a much quieter Varanasi regularly provide entertainment in the life that is played out there, from fishing to bathing to clothes washing and pujas. Also not to be missed are the guaranteed spectacular sunsets and sun rises which can be viewed from the charming verandas which about in this quirky palace hotel. Between the palace and the ghats is a beautiful temple which can be wondered around at leisure. The atmosphere at Ahilya is more of a friend’s beautiful yet quirky home rather than a grand palace. Perfectly restored with pale old stone floors, ancient shuttered doors, carved arches and bespoke furniture, no two rooms are the same and there are plenty of hidden spots where one can while away the afternoon with a good book. Richard Holkar, whose father was the Maharaja of Indore, is the driving force behind Ahilya and is passionate about the region's crafts and traditions as well as keeping a traditional kitchen garden which produces delicious, often organic meals. For the more active, the hotel organises activities at the fort, on the river and in the surrounding area including visits to ancient forts and temples, local handcraft centres where beautiful saris are produced and the extraordinary destinations of Mandu and Omkareshwar.