Samode Haveli, Jaipur, Rajasthan

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A Jaipur favourite, Samode Haveli is the 18th century ancestral home of an aristocratic Jaipur family. Not allowing large tour groups, it retains the authentic feel of a well-run heritage hotel. Precisely what it is. One of four properties under the same management, the Samode family manage to maintain standards across the board. Tucked away amidst its sprawling grounds, each of the 39 bedrooms demonstrates the same flair for design, though of course, no two are the same. Monochrome tiles create an air of sophistication whilst forget-me-not blue walls and sunny yellow silks a Francophile feel. Old black and white family photographs add to the history. Dinners at Samode Haveli are rather special. The entire courtyard, with its bubbling fountains, is transformed, under soft lantern light; wrought iron tables are widely spaced to allow for intimate candlelit dinners. The dining hall is fabulously ostentatious. Not the place for a light lunch, but it definitely should be tried at least once. The food is superb and menus are always changing. Both the Indian and Continental options should be tried, and paired with a good wine selection. And the pièce de résistance? The peachy pool and obligatory poolside bar. There are few places better suited to spend a long lazy afternoon.
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